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Weight
With practice, your weights will decrease over time. Your sensations will allow you to fish lighter, which will have a major impact on the presentation of the lure... It will be more natural!
If sometimes overhanging your lure makes the fish react, as a general rule you'll be looking for lightness! However, despite the risk of snagging, I advise you to fish a little heavier at first to get a good feel for the bottom.
As an indication, for a current between 2 and 3 knots, in 15-20 meters I will start my fishing between 30 and 40 g depending on the wind and in 10 meters between 20 and 25 g.
The right weight should allow you to feel the bottom every 3-4 pulls.
The throw
Cast across the current as a general rule or slightly behind the boat, but this requires you to cast your lure more heavily.
Try to cast as far as possible (unless you're fishing for a specific rock head) to cover as much ground as possible.
If there's a crosswind (i.e. perpendicular to the current axis), fish into the wind. This will keep your lure taut and give you maximum thrills. However, you'll have to weight your lure a little more.
As soon as the lure hits the water, close the pick-up then reel in the banner to get your braid tight and set your rod at 45°.
Lure descent
As the lure descends, keep your rod taut to feel for a possible hit, which happens very frequently, and to feel for the lure's arrival on the bottom, which will be reflected by a perceptible "toc" in your rod and a loss of tension.
Immediately lift your lure off the bottom with an initial sharp pull to prevent it from snagging...
If there's a lot of bottom, you can open your pick-up, place your finger on the spool and release line regularly, accompanying the lure's descent with your rod.
Traction itself
You can now make your first pull, bringing the rod up from the low (almost horizontal) position to the vertical. If you're right-handed, you do this by bringing your reel from your right hip over your left shoulder.
Your movement can be slow or fast, depending on the lure and the mood of the fish, but I like it to be progressive to get the lure into action!
At the end of your pull, stop and pause to let your lure finish its run, then lower your rod to 60° and retrieve the banner on the reel!
Beware, the strike can come at any moment, often just when the lure is tipping at the end of the pull... Your rod is then vertical and striking is complicated...
Line voltage
Now comes the most important moment, the (re)descent of the lure... 90% of hits occur at this moment.
You need to accompany the lure on its descent without bridling it, but keeping the banner taut so you can feel the slightest knock characteristic of the bass's touch and strike. But also to feel the contact with the bottom.
You have to find a happy medium between a completely soft banner (which doesn't give any feedback) and a completely taut banner that bridles your lure. For me, that slight dip in the banner is really a determining factor!
You accompany the lure's descent by lowering your rod to the horizontal, then you can resume your animation with a new pull. Ideally, you should make contact with the bottom every 3-4 pulls to assess the height of the water column at which your lure is moving.
Now that you know how to animate your lure for pull-pull fishing, let's see what equipment is necessary and best suited to this technique!
