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Articulated Game changer black/purple or all-black (other colors available) âeuros size 20 cm and up
Bob Popovics, American fly tyer and pioneer in striped bass fly tying, has created some very innovative and revolutionary fly patterns. The holo, bulkhead, beast or game changer type of fly tying is ideal for pike fishing, as it is light and gives plenty of volume. They are also very lively and reproduce fish movements quite well. I recommend his book "Fleye Design".
The fly's various articulations give it a sinuous swimming action. When jerked or pulled hard, the fly turns sideways. Pikes love it! Especially when they're following and only decide at the last moment.
Black and black/purple streamers are very catchy. Particularly in the murky, acidic waters of some lakes and ponds, but not only. But don't hesitate to use different sizes and materials.
Assembly sheet
Hook Ahrex PR 350, Gamakatsu Worm 26 6/0 or equivalent
Use shanks (hook shanks) which you can buy off the shelf or, as in my case, you can make your own using piano wire and bailing pliers. Make or take 3 to 4 20 mm shanks.
On the first shank to be clamped in your vice, first attach a tuft of bucktail (7-8 cm) in black holo at the rear eyelet, then fold it back at a fairly tight angle (20°). Incorporate black flashabou. Take your second shank and pass its eyelet through the first shank (where the first bucktail tuft was attached). Close and secure the tab of the first shank with the mounting silk. At the front, close to the second eyelet, attach another clump (slightly shorter, 5 cm) of black bucktail in holo and fold it back as before. This first part resembles a small streamer, very airy and voluminous.
Pass your second shank over the first, then close the tab of the second shank and attach a tuft of purple bucktail of the same length as the front of the first shank to the back of the front eyelet. Use your mounting silk to form a cone at the front to give it the right shape and angle (30/35°).
Repeat the same operation as many times as there are shanks, gradually increasing the bucktail angle (max 45° for the last shank). I rarely use more than 3 or 4 shanks. We'll call this part the tail in the following. You can use purple bucktail for the joints above your first shank (or small streamer).
Take your hook, and after having passed your tail (made up of several shanks) through the eye of your last shank, fix it by having previously cut one of the eyelets of this last shank. Place the eye of your last shank at the back of the hook at the bend (no longer to avoid tangling the shanks on the hook). The eyelet must be positioned vertically to allow articulation and swimming of the fly's tail.
Attach a tuft of black or purple holo bucktail 1 cm from the bend of your hook and fold it over. For the last 3 bucktail attachment steps, attach the bucktail, then pass in front of it to give the angle like a bulkhead rig. The length of the bucktail should be degressive and fuller the closer you get to the hook eye, for reasons of weight and swimming. The more you move towards the hook eye, the denser the tufts, but slightly shorter.
The profile of the fly should resemble an "eye drop" to make the tail undulate as the water presses against the material.
Fix the eyes to the desired size. Here 3 mm using epoxy for greater durability.
Tips and tricks
This fly should undulate in the water like a real fish, due to the bucktail lengths and the morphology of the fly (denser at the front).
To be used with inter or plunging silk. Any animation will work. However, I prefer the rolly polly animation, but also stop and go, punctuated by sharp pulls to offset the fly to one side. This movement often triggers a strike as the fly turns and finds itself sideways in relation to a following fish.
I fit this model in many colors. The white with pink head is excellent. Or malboro (white with red head), pink head with chartreuse body, yellow head with white body, etc...
