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Box storage
There's no need to worry about this if you're fishing with lures or jigs. The weight of the lure or line is indicated directly on the sinker or float. But for fly fishers, it's a different story. Once the imitation has been made, it's impossible to see how many turns of lead are on the hook shank, now covered in hair and feathers.
I've seen some anglers sub-weight their nymph in the palm of their hand to find out its weight, but it's an empirical method to say the least. I can tell the difference between an unweighted nymph and one fitted with a tungsten ball, but how do you tell the difference between 3 and 6 turns of lead?
Some others are very meticulous and immediately put their flies in the right place in their box. However, this has a number of disadvantages for me. First of all, you have to be very organized and meticulous, which I'm not. Above all, the box always ends up with a few imitations falling out. And then you're lost, you don't know who's going where.
A tip for choosing the right ballast
The tip given to me by a friend greatly simplifies things, and I've been using it happily for many years.
This involves placing a discreet colored tag on the immitation. You need to determine your own color code beforehand. For me, who generally uses 3 types of ballast per imitation (excluding ball), I use olive/green for the lightest (lead-free), red or orange for intermediate ballast (3 or 5 turns), and black for the heaviest (6 or 10 turns).
Of course, it's up to you to decide what you want and need.
This can also work on ball nymphs. If you happen to add lead towers in addition to the ball, you'll get an even heavier imitation. In this way, you can easily distinguish nymphs with balls as the only ballast from those with balls and lead towers.
Depending on the imitation, the tag may be made at the bend of the hook or at the head.
You'll be able to choose the imitation you want in the blink of an eye.
