Go for the big pike
It's been years since I last set foot in the Dordogne, due to lack of time and distance. I caught my first grayling there over 25 years ago, and I've been wanting to go back for several years now, in particular to fish for grayling in autumn and tempt the big pikes of the Lot.
I get in touch with Matthias, whom I know from social networks and his beautiful films about "la belle" (the local name for the Dordogne), to organize a little trip with him.
I've never met him yet, but we've exchanged numerous times and in the small world of fly fishing everyone knows each other.
Matthias has been fishing the Dordogne since he was a boy, and knows more than 60 km of this superb river with its incredible potential. Grayling, trout, large barbel, chub, carp and even very large pike populate these waters.
Since this year, he has been offering his guiding services with original features such as canoeing down the river to land at various spots that are impassable from the shore, in search of grayling, trout and barbel in summer, or drift boating, i.e. a boat that allows two anglers plus the guide to go downstream and fish from the boat while drifting for several kilometers. An "American-style" fishing experience rarely offered on French rivers.
Preparing for the trip and a succession of bad news!
I'm very excited to be back on this beautiful river, so many memories abound. Back in the day, I fished there with my father on several occasions, and also spent some time with a friend to try grayling on Argentat. In 2021, the reconfinement prevented me from going back and I was very frustrated. It's not always easy to find the time, especially as I'm a fishing guide in Brittany.
Unfortunately, I injured my shoulder shortly before the start. A lesion of the supraspinatus tendon, which doesn't mix well with fly-fishing. I decide to maintain my stay, and in fact, to fish with my left hand, which I already had to do when I contracted epicondylitis a few years ago.
Matthias calls me a few days before my departure to announce that fishing for grayling won't be possible, as the flows are very high, especially during the week, when EDF is releasing water at this important time for electricity production. This is one of the major problems on this river. The flows are constantly changing, which can jeopardize fishing. What's more, fish populations have to adapt, and during the breeding season, this is catastrophic for the spawning and survival of juveniles!
So we'll only be able to go after pike, which is already a good thing, but even less easy with the left hand! And I really wanted to get back to fishing for that fantastic grayling!
Matthias, a fisherman, videographer and lover of his region
Matthias picks me up at Brive station and gives me an overview of the situation. We finally meet in the flesh, and hit it off. Both passionate about fishing and flies, but also about travel, conversations flow.
The conditions aren't ideal, as it's been raining a lot and the water levels are very high and dirty. We're going to make the best of it, and we're going to fish for pike in various sections of the middle Dordogne near Souillac.
Matthias explains in detail the fishing potential of his region, which is very well suited to the fishing tourist. In addition to a river full of fish, the Lot and Corrèze regions are renowned for their gastronomy, numerous castles and tourist attractions.
He's a lover of his region who wants other fishing enthusiasts to discover the beauty of the sites, while seeking out a multitude of species. The Dordogne has always attracted the "crowds" who each year come to measure themselves against the beautiful trout and grayling that populate these rich waters.
In addition to these two highly sought-after species, Matthias wants to diversify his offer by taking anglers to other fish such as barbel, whitefish, and certainly in the near future, carp, but also pike, which are very present on the downstream parts of the "Belle".
Drift fishing on the Dordogne with power fishing
So every day we're going to fish different stretches of the river to try out different spots, all of which are home to some beautiful pike, but also to help me discover the Dordogne valley and its magnificent scenery.
On the first day, the very high and dirty waters were unsuitable for pike fishing, especially fly fishing, but we gave it a go by power fishing every bait, slowing down the current and above all the slow, deeper zones connected to the river, known here as coasnes. These are like backwaters, sometimes resulting from resurgence, or from very small tributaries, but also created by man for various reasons.
Pike like it there, as they find areas with less pronounced currents. Even though pike can thrive in rivers, they appreciate calmer areas where they can save their energy and rest when not feeding. These coasnes are also breeding grounds for carnivores, particularly pike, which seek out areas of flooded grass beds.
A friend of his, Luc, boarded the boat in the afternoon and tried his hand at lures. Except in a coasne with translucent waters, we won't make a move. I missed a small pike of barely 50/60 which caught only part of the fly, then had a swirl and later another short bite.
Flows are still strong (over 300 m3) but the water is clearing for our second day. We'll be accompanied by Frédérique, a long-time friend of Matthias, co-creator of the gobages.com website and a great fly-fishing fanatic on the Dordogne. These two often fish together, exploring new areas in search of new challenges. The big pikes of the Lot know them well. They take to the river on their own boats. Frédérique owns a large homemade pontoon-boat, very practical for fishing this part of the Dordogne. They meet regularly to discuss strategy and share a picnic by the water.
We weren't any luckier on the second day, even though it seemed to be more favorable. The flows are so changeable every day, with tidal ranges of over 100 m3 at times, that the fish have to spend more time finding a place to retreat than feeding!
A trip with very complicated conditions, but with a beautiful finish
The third day will be the charm!
An identical start to the day. No tracking, no touching for most of the day.
I'll very briefly try a little drowned shot on an edge in the hottest hours in case a shade is inclined to take a few nymphs, but to no avail, and without much faith.
Then in the early afternoon, in a bait behind an islet, I catch a pretty Dordogne pike on a chartreuse and white articulated fly of my own making. What a pleasure to finally feel the carbon of my rod bend! A fish in great shape that rewards my efforts. In fact, I've been fishing left-handed all day for 2.5 days now and it's all about edging, precision and speed. It's not easy with your lead hand, so with the other hand, imagine! First left-handed pike in my fishing life!
We congratulate each other and Matthias is very happy for me. He's a charming, caring person, very passionate, who likes to share his experiences, and good company.
Then, at the end of the afternoon, as the sun was waning, our two streamers were less than a metre apart on an unassuming bank, when suddenly I saw Matthias' rod bend under a hard, violent strike. He's just hooked a big Dordogne fish. The much sought-after fish that has finally come to visit us.
The rush was powerful, and the fish, over a metre long, made a great splash as it set off into the current! What a sight to see this big pike come out of the water with Matthias' rod in full swing! He masters the fight perfectly and I put him in the landing net as soon as the fish approaches the boat. A short, intense moment that we're both lucky enough to share.
As much as I'd have loved to catch that pike, which would have been my fly-fishing record, I'm very happy for Matthias, who did everything he could over the three days to get us to touch this kind of fish. He/we deserve it and it's a real pleasure to see such a fine specimen! This river produces some very big pike, and he caught a 93 cm one a few days later, and a 110 cm one a week after I left.
The trip was certainly complicated in terms of fishing conditions and results, but very pleasant thanks to Matthias' company, a great meeting, and the superb scenery of this valley with its ochre and rust autumn colors. To be repeated one of these days!
